The Designer & The Atelier

I have had the opportunity to meet a good many talented designers in my years in the jewelry industry but never one who ceases to amaze me with his knowledge, technical wizardry and astute understanding of the concept of design. Imagine sitting across the same room with such a person, day in, day out. To consider oneself fortunate is a mere understatement.

Born in Moscow in 1948, Yuri Kolesov started his career path in art by attending the prestigious Moscow Stroganov Art Academy. While still in the Academy, he won various awards in Europe for his works in ceramics and sculpture. Several awards and a graduation led him to the position of Director of Exhibition with the Ministry of Arts of the former Soviet Union. Anyone who understands how the 'System' worked in the former USSR, would understand what it meant to be given the distinction of such a position. After his sojourn with the Ministry, Yuri continued as a freelance artist, working on one commission after another before realizing that the same 'System' that he was working for, was now restricting his abilities as an artist. When the opportunity came for him to migrate to the United States, he took it without any expectation of what may lie ahead. A couple of months after his arrival, he was offered a job as a jeweler in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan. With his background in sculpture, it wasn't long before he proved himself to be a very competent designer. A year after his arrival, he submitted an application to further his studies at the prestigious Cranbrook Institute in Michigan but through some bizarre twist of events, they ended up offering him a position as an instructor instead. Whatever it was that he submitted in his portfolio, it was definitely more than what the Institute had bargained for. After Cranbrook, Yuri continued his career as a designer, where his works brought him to the art worlds of New York and Los Angeles. One visit to New York, let to another and before long, he decided to permanently station himself here.

Within a year, he was offered the position of head jeweler at a local company called Bullfish, where I had the pleasure of meeting him. Bullfish was then responsible for most of the jewelry and accessory designs for Donna Karan and a collection at Bergdorf Goodman under the label, Ryan Bao. All his efforts at Bullfish helped put the company on the map as a hardware specialist to various other fashion design companies. Yuri's tenure at Bullfish lasted 3 more years before he decided to be on his own again. Word got around about this talented jeweler and it wasn't long before he was approached by Robert Fish, head of Special Projects at Harry Winston. Bob Fish had a collection that he was working on and wanted Yuri's help to get it going. Realizing the potential, Yuri then decided to team up with his brother and myself to form the Atelier. The Atelier's function was then to help develop the line (for Harry Winston), from models to samples. Under Yuri's artistic and creative leadership, the Atelier was not only a source for models, samples and the production of fine jewelry but we evolved into a prime source of custom hardware for handbags, belts, shoes, clothing and home furnishings. Yuri's forte, however, still remained in fine jewelry, belt buckles and cufflinks. From his first high end belt buckle collection for Nordstrom, to Jette Joop's collection of Sterling and 18kt gold buckles at Bergdorf Goodman, to Ralph Lauren's celebrated 'RL' buckle. In Ralph's case, it was the first time in their history that an accessory had gone down the runaway more than 5 times within the same show.

As the Atelier continued to evolve, so did it's list of clients. Past and present clients include the likes of :

Harry Winston

Jette Joop

Ralph Lauren

Penny Preville

Paul Morelli

Elliot

Ghurka

Loree Rodkin

Christopher Phelan

Martin Rapaport (Rapaport Diamond News)

Slane & Slane

Como Sports

Zadora

Neiman Marcus Service Center

Towards the end of 1998, the Atelier was blessed with the addition of another designer of exceptional talent, Zoya Levinshtyn. Zoya was fortunate enough to begin her foray into fine jewelry (some 20 years ago) under the watchful eyes of her mentor Vladimir Rodin (the present master jeweler at Kieselstein-Cord). Rodin taught her all she needed to know to succeed as a jewelry designer but under Yuri's creative leadership, she has become a design talent to be reckon with. Having one talented designer in an atelier these days is a rarity and the combination of two that work seamlessly together is a lethal advantage. Very rarely would one get the opportunity to work side by side with someone as talented as Yuri. I count Zoya, myself and the others in the atelier as those very fortunate few. We are used to hearing the exploits of designers here and there but has anyone stopped for a moment to realize the extend of their talents? My years in the Atelier has offered me the opportunity to work with some of the best known jewelry and accessory designers of our time and there has yet to be one of them who is not impressed by Yuri's talents, whenever their paths crossed. So, who you have here is not merely a fine jewelry designer but a Renaissance man in the true form and meaning of it. The Webster's Collegiate dictionary defines a Renaissance man as one who has wide interests and is an expert in several areas. Well, let's see....he's a master jeweler, a custom hardware specialist, a painter, a sculptor, a ceramist, an illustrator and a photographer. Oh, and did I mention about the four year commission Yuri received to re-do all the windows in a mansion on the Gold Coast (Long Island), with stain glasses of Flemish art? Well, that's another story......................................

Helmie Ashiblie, V.P. - Atelier YOZU